PDF Ebook The Cut of Men's Clothes

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The Cut of Men's Clothes

PDF Ebook The Cut of Men's Clothes

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About the Author

Norah Waugh lectured and supervised practical work on historic costume in the Theatre Department of the Central School of Art and Design in London. In the late 1930s she was in charge of costume at the London Theatre Studio run by Michel Saint-Denis.

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Product details

Paperback: 196 pages

Publisher: Routledge; 1 edition (September 10, 2015)

Language: English

ISBN-10: 1138870552

ISBN-13: 978-1138870550

Product Dimensions:

7 x 0.4 x 10 inches

Shipping Weight: 14.4 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)

Average Customer Review:

4.3 out of 5 stars

10 customer reviews

Amazon Best Sellers Rank:

#738,681 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

Among theatrical costumers, Norah Waugh is a staple, a gotta-have-it. She has done volumes on both men's and women's attire, based on her extensive knowledge of garments and their construction.This is more than just a picture book; there are illustrations of the patterns used in constructing the garments men wore over four centuries. If you're interested in drafting your own patterns, this becomes an invaluable resource. Novices beware,however. Don't expect McCall's or Butterick. There are only small-scale sketches of the major patterns pieces, with the barest hint of scale. There are no instructions for assembling the pieces; you are on your own (and, even though I've been making clothes for many, many years, I have found myself baffled at how certain pieces from Waugh's drawings are to be sewn together).Another weakness is the lack of detail about certain items. I was recently commissioned to recreate shirts for Benjamin Franklin, circa 1780-90, so I naturally turned to Nora's book. No problem finding depictions of the shirt itself, but when it came to the neckwear, she didn't include anything that helped me.It bears mentioning that since most of the garments that have survived to be examined in the 20th Century were made for the well-to-do, Ms. Waugh's book will not be a great place to look for peasant or working-class garb. In addition to surviving garments, she relies heavily on paintings, particularly portraits. Again, only the wealthy and/or noble were typically the subjects.Nonetheless, if you are researching and/or attempting to construct period menswear, Norah Waugh's books are truly worth having.

A great addition to my reference​ books.

A great resource for seeing the way garments were cut for men. This book is definitely more for someone who has an interest in the history of tailoring and a good understanding of how clothing is cut and assmebled. There are patterns that can be enlarged and used as a starting point to fit a modern body. I highly recommend this book for a working, research library.

Good product !

This book was recommended to me three years ago as a supplement to costume history books. It is an extremely useful book as it not only provides images of clothing pieces but also historical information regarding the construction of them including layouts of pattern pieces. This is a great book for anyone seriously interested in creating period accurate clothing.

This book is the only one I've found that gives decent cutting diagrams for men's garments. I love it and have successfully made a few of the garments in it.This book is not for beginners. Don't expect to be able to just scale up one of the patterns and get sewing. Waugh assumes you know how to sew, make and alter patterns. The only techniques mentioned are ones we don't use commonly in modern sewing and those are really only touched on out of curiosity's sake.The only real downside is the lack of back views of many garments. Some of the coats have back views, but many of the breeches and other garments are forgotten--possibly because they're not normally fancy--but for someone who is trying to get the fit right on a pair of breeches it would be very helpful!I recommend it to historical costumers who are interested in accurate recreation and also to theatre costumers as a visual reference for a stage interpretation. Not for someone who wants a quick costume for the weekend or for a novice sewer.

I was a little surprised when I recieved this book that it is not quite as beefy as Norah Waugh's _Cut of Women's_ clothes. I was however very pleased with it's cotent. About half of the patterns seem to be taken from pre-1780s and the other half from 1840 on. This was a little disappointing as I was looking for some good Regency Jackets for my husband. There are how ever several frock coats that I can easily ajust the cut to to get the look I want. This is a great book as far as I can tell but I am still undecided as to whether it is worth the steep price tag.

I never thought I would ever sew. However, my brother and I got the grandiose idea that we would make ourselves leather buff coats to wear during re-enactments with our 17th century living history group. We needed a pattern and started with research at the local college library and found this book. Although neither one of us had ever sewn before, we were able to take the coat pattern from this book, adapt it to fit our bodies and sew a coat for ourselves out of buff leather. There is a whole chapter on 17th century clothing which has patterns for breeches, doublets, cassacks and sword hangars. It also has photos of actual museum pieces. If I could use the patterns in the book, than anyone with any skill will have no problems. This book is an good resource for those wishing to sew their own period clothing.

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Ebook Download The Fallacy Detective: Thirty-Eight Lessons on How to Recognize Bad Reasoning

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The Fallacy Detective: Thirty-Eight Lessons on How to Recognize Bad Reasoning

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Review

I love your book! I never knew how much fun logic was until I read your book. P.S. I am 12 years old. --Paul Muenster, studentI'm always delighted when two sides that seem mutually opposed come together in harmonious agreement. I'm even more delighted when I've taken one of those sides. In this case, I write of the efforts of Nathaniel and Hans Bluedorn, brothers from Iowa who advocate homeschooling and create educational materials from a Christian worldview. The fruit of the latest Bluedorn effort is a short text, The Fallacy Detective, designed to be a primer in logic for older children, specifically homeschooled Christian children, though the book is intended for anyone who wants to explore the subject. . . . I find it wonderful that the Bluedorns, among others, are actively reinvigorating the religious world with a healthy dose of independent thought . . . --Andrew C. Thomas, The Tech (Massachusetts Institute of Technology)My family and I are really enjoying your book. Even my youngest son, who is eight, enjoys attempting to answer the questions. Your book was a great introduction to another program that I had purchased. Going directly into that program probably would have bored my children to tears but now they are interested in the concepts of logic. My children became instantly attracted to the program because of the the comic segments but later couldn't put it down. --LaVera, MD, parent

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About the Author

In 1999 Nathaniel Bluedorn and Hans Bluedorn decided to try to turn their interest in logic into a livelihood by starting FallacyDetective.com. Since then, they have written two books on logic for children and adults, The Fallacy Detective and The Thinking Toolbox.

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Product details

Paperback: 264 pages

Publisher: Christian Logic; 4 edition (April 4, 2015)

Language: English

ISBN-10: 097453157X

ISBN-13: 978-0974531571

Product Dimensions:

6.5 x 0.6 x 9 inches

Shipping Weight: 12.8 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)

Average Customer Review:

4.3 out of 5 stars

179 customer reviews

Amazon Best Sellers Rank:

#6,743 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

Great review of logical fallacies with good examples of each of the fallacies described. If you aren't familiar with logical fallacies, read this book and you may never look at news and politics the same again. See how easy it is to jump to bad conclusions by biting on a fallacy dangled before you like a worm on a hook.

I got this book for a little extra work for my homeschooled 8th grader. He began it at the beginning of the school year. Doing a couple lessons a week, he has nearly completed it.He has found it enjoyable, and never complains about doing the lesson. He is definitely learning, too. He has told me when I'm using one of these fallacies. I think his favorite is the red herring. Or, maybe I'm more susceptible to using that one!This book is a great introduction to logical fallacies. The author makes the point in the introduction that the book covers a very small subset of logic. But, it is a great start. I find that many people have not learned critical thinking skills. Reading this book, and working through the exercises, is giving my son a good start to learning those skills.

In the story "The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe" the Professor is trying to help Lucy solve a problem using logic and reasoning. When she acts like that train of thought is new to her, he makes the comment, "What do they teach children in schools these days?" That is how you will feel when you read this book. My seventh grader has it as required reading for a class I enrolled him in and this should really be taught in schools. Every child needs to know how to reason logically and how to detect fallacious reasoning in advertising, debates and rhetoric. This is a skill we need daily in our media saturated culture. Whether you are in junior high or a grown adult you will find this an enriching read.

I enjoyed reading through this book with my daughter's as a great intro to logical fallacies. The author's examples and humor made this new subject understandable and fun. We gained confidence in recognizing bad reasoning in our everyday lives thanks to this easy to read book. As a homeschool parent, I especially appreciated the review at the end of each chapter which helped keep the fallacies fresh in our minds. We have been inspired to dig deeper into logic.

Nothing is more important than teaching children logic and economics. The latter finds a sound foundation on the former.

I am so glad my daughter had this as part of her homeschool regimen via Amblesideonline,org.I think this is very valuable information for people living in this media driven world. It is important to know when people are trying to manipulate you, for whatever reason.

My 5th grader was drawn to this book, though I bought it for my 7th grader. It is attractively arranged, with illustrations which draws the reader.

My two sons (ages 13 and 14) loved this curriculum and it made it easy for them to learn what fallacies are all about. I highly recommend.

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PDF Ebook The First Total War: Napoleon's Europe and the Birth of Warfare as We Know It

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The First Total War: Napoleon's Europe and the Birth of Warfare as We Know It

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Product details

Paperback: 432 pages

Publisher: Mariner Books; Reprint edition (January 16, 2008)

Language: English

ISBN-10: 0618919813

ISBN-13: 978-0618919819

Product Dimensions:

5.6 x 1.1 x 8.6 inches

Shipping Weight: 1.2 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)

Average Customer Review:

3.2 out of 5 stars

13 customer reviews

Amazon Best Sellers Rank:

#432,700 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

David Bell provides an interesting thesis through an intellectual look at the French Revolution and Napoleonic wars and their effect on European culture and thinking. The rise of militarism and the move towards modernity in the army is categorized well throughout and supported by looking at actions from Vendee, Italy, Egypt, Prussia and Spain. From brutalizing campaigns where the limited warfare of the old regime was cast aside in favor of not only large scale relentless battles but guerilla actions. The book is not simply a recasting of the great battles but combines the results of these battles with popular works of literature and theater at the time and the shifts in beliefs from the intellectuals down to the masses. Bell as always delivers a fresh look at a tired topic by utilizing the aspects of intellectual history and using them as a lens to view various events. In this case we see the development of a new type of warfare and how it crystallized in the Napoleonic era. The reason that I use the word interesting and disagree with various reviewers is that Bell thesis is not flawed but the fact that this warfare did not stick and went back to a traditional European model means it did not become dominant until later on. It planted the idea that this type of war could be waged and laid the groundwork for some of the great military minds to publish works such as On War creating new tactics and strategies to shape future wars. Overall well worth the time for those who enjoy military history or the exciting things that intellectual history can unlock when looking at a topic.

The role of War in human events has been discussed by political philosophers for centuries. David Bell describes the early French traditions in his book; today, the argument continues: Authors like John Mueller claim that war is on the road to extinction (Retreat from Doomsday: The Obsolescence of Major War), while others, "realists", think that it's very much here to stay (The Independence of Nations). In "The First Total War", Bell describes not only the conversation but its consequences - how the discourse of Peace and War affect the practice of warfare. And Bell offers a paradoxical observation: that ideas about the obsolescence and even obscenity of war themselves cause war to be more terrible then otherwise.There are two ways of thinking of Bell's book: you can read it as a pretty straight history of The French Revolution and the Napoleonic Era, a little strange in its focus but that nonetheless covering most of the basics, or as an illustration of the main idea: That one of the great renovations of the French Revolution was instituting a view of War as abnormal and unnatural; And, ironically, that this de-legitimization of War made the Wars of the French Revolution into modern - total - wars, much worse than the wars that came before.Under the Ancient Regime, wars took place regularly. The European powers constantly fought one another. Every decade, at least one major European power fought another, and usually, more than one. The wars were perceived as a natural, inevitable part of international politics: Indeed, warfare had been the raison d'etre of the stae. War had been celebrated in Art, Literature and Poetry, and the great deeds of Kings and Generals universally acclaimed.But with the Enlightenment, a new brand of thinking came into being: the view of war as unnatural, an abomination. Philosophers like Voltaire and the Baron d'Holbach and popular writers like Archbishop Fenelon argued not only that was is evil, but that it is on the way out: That the growth of commerce, and the increased knowledge and sophistication of mankind means that war would cease.The French Revolution unleashed these ideas upon the world. The Revolutionaries, with faith in the rights of man, heralded a new age of perpetual peace. But first, the reactionary, counter revolutionary forces had to be destroyed...For the irony is that the very visions of perpetual Peace led with them the willingness to achieve it regardless of the means; Thus the wars of the ancient regime which were limited and under control were replaced by mass scale feasts of destruction.To put it in game theory terms (Which Bell doesn't do), the aristocrats who ran pre 1789 armies expected repeat engagements. They have had an incentive for moderation because they knew moderation would be returned. Cultural factors - such as the similarity between aristocratic leaders on all sides of the conflicts - helped enforce the moderation.After the Revolution, France's new leaders did not expect repeat engagements: they believed in total defeat for the enemy, followed by eternal peace. Partially as a result of this new outlook, wars became a grim, disastrous affair. In the war against France's foreign neighbors, an element of moderation remained because of fear of reprisals. But when destroying internal enemies, no such checks existed: the wide spread destruction of the Vendee region, the heart of the counter revolutionary forces in France, is shocking. "The Vendee was not a genocide, but it nonetheless stirs memories of recent genocidal horrors". (p.184). This theme sums up the first half of the book, and it might have ended here. Instead, Bell continues to chronicle the events of the Revolution, and the rise and fall of Napoleon Bonaparte. Here Bell's thesis is less clear, and the historical elements of the narrative move to the stage's front.The argument Bell offers in this section is about the culture of the warrior not the horrors of warfare. Before the ancient regime, to be a solider - to be a commander - was part of the persona one wore. No full time professionals, Ancient Regime aristocrats took soldiering as one of the many facets of their personality. They danced; They wrote poetry; They seduced ladies; And they made war.With the revolution, soldiering became professional. The army became separate from civilian life, housed separately in barracks and perceived as a different quality than the civil society. Indeed, only in the time of the French Revolution did the terms "Civilian" and "Military" come to detonate the different classes of people.Napoleon, as the first political general, knew how to use the difference between Civilian and Military spheres to his political advantage. If Civil society seemed corrupt, selfish and incompetent, Napoleon appeared an embodiment of the military spirit - brilliant, powerful, successful, loyal and patriotic. "What have you done with the France that I left you so brilliant?" he asked before taking power. "The Republic exists almost nowhere but in the armies" he claimed. His soldiers called upon him to take the mantle for the good of the country. "General, you have saved France... now save the Republic!" (pp. 218-222). Could he do anything but heed the call?The French Revolution doubtlessly changed Europe and the world in various respects. Bell's focuses on the transformation of warfare and of the military, of the birth of the professional soldier and the soldier cum political hero. And he offers an imperfect but lively history of the French Revolution and the Napoleonic Era, including short summaries of the major battles. Both intellectually exciting and historically illuminating, it should appeal to the expert and the neophyte alike.

Enlightenment produced new currents of thoughts that repudiated the military culture of the old regime as merely pursuit of honor and glory. According to Bell, since the religious wars, modern European states and its concomitant aristocratic culture `placed surprising limits on war' by mutually agreeing to a code of conduct to protect POWs, enemy noncombatants, etc. In a sense, the aristocratic wars were really `large-scale duels with moral issues subordinated to the thirst for honor and glory' that treated enemy as `honorable adversaries' and recoiled from inflicting needless human sufferings. Hence, Louis XIV's razing of the Palatinate particularly outraged and courted collective condemnation.Bell singled out Fenelon and his work, Telemachus, for corroding the adhesion to the aristocratic war culture. Its exhortation of the aged-old `claims of conscience, denunciation of war and Christian pacifism' gained a huge following in France. D'Holbach's The System of Nature, another bestseller, proposed a theory of history to explain the persistence of warfare as an `incomplete embrace of modernity - to remnants of barbarism.' War was just a stage in the progress to universal peace. In the minds of the reading public, these works `transformed peace from a moral imperative to a historical one... and opened the door to the idea that in the name of future peace, any and all means might be justified - including even exterminatory war.'The cataclysmic social transformation of the French Revolution opened an opportunity for the execution and reinterpretation of those ideals. The Assembly debate on war and peace at the Manege underscored an acute shift from aristocratic concept of wars. Bell observed that new leaders such as Brissot `saw international relations in idealistic terms straight out of Telemachus.' The Girondins successfully made a declaration of peace but simultaneously asserted that `peoples had the right to defend themselves vigorously if attacked.' War rhetoric took a fanatical turn: `A coming `worldwide war of liberation was a holy cause; we will only be "regenerated" by blood; we need strong explosions to expel strong poison in the body of France.'The Revolution spurred the conviction that war was `a matter of morality and not science or aristocratic art,' no longer the `chess piece maneuvers of the aristocrats.' The democratization of the hitherto aristocratic monopoly of glory and honor formed the plank of the modern culture of war. Individual soldiers and military leaders could enjoy upward mobility by battlefield achievements. The immediate consequence was the rise of `political generals,' with Napoleon being its chief representative. The glorification of war successes underscored the military's moral superiority, the heart of militarism, which 'imposed the values and customs of the military on the civilian society.' For example, the Battle of Valmy gained legendary status that reverberated in the civilian society.The birth a total war was complete when the French army with new leaders had to quell internal and external threats. The culture of war spawned a `virtual cult of martyrdom.' The sensual treatment of young Joseph Bara's death and the Republic's reaction cultivated a demonization of the enemy and intensified the `rhetoric of a war to the death.' War assumed a religious character and termed as a 'clash of proselytisms.' The spontaneous Vendee peasant uprisings was the apotheosis of this new war. The military viewed `all Vendeans as potentially soldiers and dedicated rebels' hence this `erasure of the line between combatants and non combatants brought about the wanton slaughter of both.' Both sides adopted this total war unleashing unspoken cruelty. Evidence could be found from Calabria to Saragosa.This riveting and fascinating narrative charted the formation of a new war culture but the story falls short. In the introduction, Bell remarked on Americans' treatment of `armed forces with respect verging on reverence' and the apocalyptic rhetoric used in the war of terror eerily mirrored the revolutionaries. How did this modern `culture of war' metastasize and subsume into the fabric of western civilization and beyond? Bell's observations and evidence found in literature seem to support his theory but a further examination would greatly boost credibility.

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